Batanes: A piece of heaven on earth

WHEN you’re a city-rat like me, juggling wife and mommy duties with career and social life, chances are you do get burned out at times.  You know that feeling when you are just so tired of about everything and anything in life?  If you feel you are in that point or about to reach the tipping point, it is time to pack your bags for some “me-time”.

Psychologists say taking a “real vacation” – away from technology and things familiar — is one of the best ways to get life fatigue off your back. Some of the signs that you already need a break are when — you can no longer concentrate in your work, you are unhappy about just anything, or you feel that anything you do no longer makes any sense.

When I see those tell-tale signs, I hie off somewhere to refresh and one of my favourite destinations is Batanes.

There is something about Batanes that refreshes a weary soul.  Isolated from mainland Luzon for a very long time, Batanes seems caught in a time-warp.  One can picture how Philippines looked like in the last century by walking in the streets of the three main islands of Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat  – quiet, simple life, very peaceful.

It’s more fun in Batanes when you’re with friends. Author with friends Vic Lactaoen, also a writer; Bob Bastillo, an Ivatan who has been living in Metro Manila since he was 10 years old, with an Ivatan farmer.

At the capital town of Basco, the busiest part of the province, visitors are greeted by friendly locals. Don’t be surprised to encounter children who take your hand and put it on their foreheads as a sign of respect.

Elsewhere, you can see carabaos pulling carts of farm produce, or cows and goats grazing in  the hills.
In many parts of the province, there is no mobile phone signal and internet cafes are rare.  Thus, you get a good excuse not to return calls and answer emails.

But what Batanes lacks in amenities, it compensates by its almost heavenly surroundings – rolling hills, beautiful seascapes and landscapes, unique rock formations and most of all, kind and hospitable people.

Because of its isolation, Batanes remains almost unadulterated. There are no modern buildings save for a handful modern houses. Old churches that dates back to the 1800s have been preserved. Spanish-era stone houses with thatched roofs still abound. Barter among neighbors and bayanihan (community effort) of many forms are ways of life.

Not too long ago, I felt all elements conspiring against me.  I have been to many destinations here and abroad but unlike other, there is something in Batanes that beckons me to come back. And so off to Batanes I went for a few days of breather.

I booked in a small hotel overlooking the West Philippine Sea.  From my room, I could hear the crushing of the waves against the rocks below and the sound of the gushing wind of the hills above.

Since it was a personal retreat, I had the luxury of time to plan my own itinerary.  I took with me a few good books.  To me, there is nothing more relaxing than being alone in the veranda of the hotel, sipping a cup of coffee while reading a book, unmindful of whatever is going on in the outside world.  That was all I did on the first day.

On my second day, I joined some friends for a tour of the southern part of Batan island, the main island of Batanes.  One of my favorite spots in Batan is Racuh a Payaman, a vast pastureland in the town of Mahatao that faces the Pacific Ocean. I could just stay in this place the whole day, gazing at the beautiful sceneries or reading a book while waiting for the sun to set.

Here you can feel an overwhelming presence of a Mighty Creator who beautifully designed the mountains, the skies and the oceans.  “It’s so beautiful I could cry,” one of my friends intimated.

Truly, here in this place and almost everywhere else in Batanes, you feel closer to God.  How can one ever say the universe came into being by a mere explosion when all you see around you are nothing but pure beauty?

The place is so peaceful and quiet you can almost hear the whisper of the Divine carried by the cool, gentle breeze.

On the third day, I went around Basco on a bike.  Even without a map, you can go around the town without the fear of being lost. The roads are easy to remember as there are very few turns.  But when you’re actually lost, you can always ask the locals. Everyone here is so kind you would think God poured all pixie dust of kindness in this corner of the earth.

 In the afternoon, I borrowed a motor bike from a local who became a friend and drove off to the hills of Vayang.  Like Racuh a Payaman, Vayang is also a vast pastureland but this one’s located in the town of Basco, facing the West Philippine Sea.  This is also a good spot to watch the sunset.  Very few people come here as this is far from residential area. But this is a must-go for tourists.  This is where you get a good glimpse of the hedgerows, a unique feature of Batanes. The hedgerows are ancient Ivatan demarcations of farm plots which also serve as windbreakers that protect the harvest from being blown away by the strong winds.

Carabaos (water buffalos) enjoy the greens of Racuh a Payaman, a communal pasture in the town of Mahatao, Batan island.

From Vayang, I drove to the lighthouse in Naidi Hills and had early dinner, al fresco. Even without the moon, the stars delightfully decorate the skies. Star-gazing in Batanes is a must-try for every visitor. You can easily spot Big Dipper, Small Dipper, the Great Bear and other stellar formations. Watching the stars by myself is both nostalgic and invigorating. It brings back memories of my childhood days in Negros which I miss so much.  At the same time, it reminds me of the vastness of the universe.  I felt so small in the backdrop of an immense creation. Yet, here I am, being taken care of by a loving God.

Indeed, what a way to regain strength than by knowing that the Creator of the universe also created you and me.  He painted rainbows in the skies, planted beautiful flowers in the fields, created magnificent landscapes all around.  How much more will He not put order back in my life?

Batanes may be a very quiet place.  Yet, it speaks loudly of the heart of God.  ##

You can visit Batanes via Sky Jet Airlines which operates a 94-seater BAe 146-200.  Flights are Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.  For reservations, call the following hotlines: (02) 635-4810 / 546-1197 / 998-4303 / 475-5267 / 475-5260 / 0917-8112282 / 0999-8894106 / 0908-2309419 / 0922-8213717.  
This article is in the latest issue of 7107 Island Travel Magazine (Issue 1/Volume 4), available in all National Bookstore nationwide.