Batanes: A piece of heaven on earth

WHEN you’re a city-rat like me, juggling wife and mommy duties with career and social life, chances are you do get burned out at times.  You know that feeling when you are just so tired of about everything and anything in life?  If you feel you are in that point or about to reach the tipping point, it is time to pack your bags for some “me-time”.

Psychologists say taking a “real vacation” – away from technology and things familiar — is one of the best ways to get life fatigue off your back. Some of the signs that you already need a break are when — you can no longer concentrate in your work, you are unhappy about just anything, or you feel that anything you do no longer makes any sense.

When I see those tell-tale signs, I hie off somewhere to refresh and one of my favourite destinations is Batanes.

There is something about Batanes that refreshes a weary soul.  Isolated from mainland Luzon for a very long time, Batanes seems caught in a time-warp.  One can picture how Philippines looked like in the last century by walking in the streets of the three main islands of Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat  – quiet, simple life, very peaceful.

It’s more fun in Batanes when you’re with friends. Author with friends Vic Lactaoen, also a writer; Bob Bastillo, an Ivatan who has been living in Metro Manila since he was 10 years old, with an Ivatan farmer.

At the capital town of Basco, the busiest part of the province, visitors are greeted by friendly locals. Don’t be surprised to encounter children who take your hand and put it on their foreheads as a sign of respect.

Elsewhere, you can see carabaos pulling carts of farm produce, or cows and goats grazing in  the hills.
In many parts of the province, there is no mobile phone signal and internet cafes are rare.  Thus, you get a good excuse not to return calls and answer emails.

But what Batanes lacks in amenities, it compensates by its almost heavenly surroundings – rolling hills, beautiful seascapes and landscapes, unique rock formations and most of all, kind and hospitable people.

Because of its isolation, Batanes remains almost unadulterated. There are no modern buildings save for a handful modern houses. Old churches that dates back to the 1800s have been preserved. Spanish-era stone houses with thatched roofs still abound. Barter among neighbors and bayanihan (community effort) of many forms are ways of life.

Not too long ago, I felt all elements conspiring against me.  I have been to many destinations here and abroad but unlike other, there is something in Batanes that beckons me to come back. And so off to Batanes I went for a few days of breather.

I booked in a small hotel overlooking the West Philippine Sea.  From my room, I could hear the crushing of the waves against the rocks below and the sound of the gushing wind of the hills above.

Since it was a personal retreat, I had the luxury of time to plan my own itinerary.  I took with me a few good books.  To me, there is nothing more relaxing than being alone in the veranda of the hotel, sipping a cup of coffee while reading a book, unmindful of whatever is going on in the outside world.  That was all I did on the first day.

On my second day, I joined some friends for a tour of the southern part of Batan island, the main island of Batanes.  One of my favorite spots in Batan is Racuh a Payaman, a vast pastureland in the town of Mahatao that faces the Pacific Ocean. I could just stay in this place the whole day, gazing at the beautiful sceneries or reading a book while waiting for the sun to set.

Here you can feel an overwhelming presence of a Mighty Creator who beautifully designed the mountains, the skies and the oceans.  “It’s so beautiful I could cry,” one of my friends intimated.

Truly, here in this place and almost everywhere else in Batanes, you feel closer to God.  How can one ever say the universe came into being by a mere explosion when all you see around you are nothing but pure beauty?

The place is so peaceful and quiet you can almost hear the whisper of the Divine carried by the cool, gentle breeze.

On the third day, I went around Basco on a bike.  Even without a map, you can go around the town without the fear of being lost. The roads are easy to remember as there are very few turns.  But when you’re actually lost, you can always ask the locals. Everyone here is so kind you would think God poured all pixie dust of kindness in this corner of the earth.

 In the afternoon, I borrowed a motor bike from a local who became a friend and drove off to the hills of Vayang.  Like Racuh a Payaman, Vayang is also a vast pastureland but this one’s located in the town of Basco, facing the West Philippine Sea.  This is also a good spot to watch the sunset.  Very few people come here as this is far from residential area. But this is a must-go for tourists.  This is where you get a good glimpse of the hedgerows, a unique feature of Batanes. The hedgerows are ancient Ivatan demarcations of farm plots which also serve as windbreakers that protect the harvest from being blown away by the strong winds.

Carabaos (water buffalos) enjoy the greens of Racuh a Payaman, a communal pasture in the town of Mahatao, Batan island.

From Vayang, I drove to the lighthouse in Naidi Hills and had early dinner, al fresco. Even without the moon, the stars delightfully decorate the skies. Star-gazing in Batanes is a must-try for every visitor. You can easily spot Big Dipper, Small Dipper, the Great Bear and other stellar formations. Watching the stars by myself is both nostalgic and invigorating. It brings back memories of my childhood days in Negros which I miss so much.  At the same time, it reminds me of the vastness of the universe.  I felt so small in the backdrop of an immense creation. Yet, here I am, being taken care of by a loving God.

Indeed, what a way to regain strength than by knowing that the Creator of the universe also created you and me.  He painted rainbows in the skies, planted beautiful flowers in the fields, created magnificent landscapes all around.  How much more will He not put order back in my life?

Batanes may be a very quiet place.  Yet, it speaks loudly of the heart of God.  ##

You can visit Batanes via Sky Jet Airlines which operates a 94-seater BAe 146-200.  Flights are Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.  For reservations, call the following hotlines: (02) 635-4810 / 546-1197 / 998-4303 / 475-5267 / 475-5260 / 0917-8112282 / 0999-8894106 / 0908-2309419 / 0922-8213717.  
This article is in the latest issue of 7107 Island Travel Magazine (Issue 1/Volume 4), available in all National Bookstore nationwide.

Low fares, it’s more fun in Batanes!

Thinking of a place to go this summer?  Why not try the unique eco-cultural experience of the time-warped Batanes group of islands where you can get a glimpse of the Philippines of old?

Flying to Batanes is now made more affordable and convenient as the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency (BCTA) offers lower airfares starting March 15.  One way ticket starts at P6,200, much lower than the usual airfare to the country’s northernmost frontier.  What more, passengers can now enjoy shorter travel time at 1 hour and 10 minutes to Batan in the comfort of a 94-seater jet. 

A province of 11 islands and a population of 15,000, Batanes has fast become the favourite travel destination of people who are looking for a unique combination of natural beauty and cultural heritage.

Batanes offers travellers breath-taking landscapes and seascapes, which has been nominated to the UNESCO World Heritage List. Not a few describe the islands as one of the most beautiful corners of the world.

Rachu a' Payaman: The communal grazing area where you can also get a beautiful glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.             

Spanish influence is still much evident in the inhabited islands of Batanes, with centuries-old churches built by the Dominicans and the limestone houses that have withstood strong typhoons. 

Some of the notable churches are the San Jose Obrero Church in Ivana, Sabtang; San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao (1873); Sto. Domingo Cathedral in Basco (the oldest built in early 18th century); and, Sta. Maria Immaculada (1845) in Itbayat.  Also worth visiting are the church in Chavayan, the only one in Batanes which still uses a thatched roof, and the church of Itbud.

A visit to the villages gives one a glimpse of the limestone technology introduced by the Spaniards when they arrived in the province at the turn of the 18^th century. The Old Spanish Bridges in Mahatao and Ivana as well as the iconic vernacular houses made out of limestone, stones, corals and a thatched roof, are scattered in the three inhabited islands of Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat.

Walking through the tiny villages of traditional stone houses amidst the quiet narrow streets of Savidug and Chavayan in Sabtang island, makes one feel like being transported to another world where time just stood still.

Everywhere in Batanes is picture-perfect, with some corners seemingly cut out of the movie scenes of The Lord of The Rings -- villages nestled between the tall lush mountains and cliffs on one side and a sweeping view of the sea on the other. Truly, travellers cannot have enough of the beauty of Batanes. You have to go there to experience it for yourself.

BCTA flights (Manila-Basco-Manila) started accepting bookings on March 01. Flights will be Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays starting on March 15.  For reservations please call the following hotlines: (02) 635-4810 / 546-1197 / 998-4303 / 475-5267 / 475-5260 / 0917-8112282 / 0999-8894106 / 0908-2309419 / 0922-8213717.  ##

Learning from the Ivatans of Batanes

I just came back from a week-long trip to Batanes. It was a tiring but very enriching trip. My body still aches from the uphill walks and the unbelievable 3-hour trip in the high seas to Itbayat -- the farthest inhabited island in the northeastern part of the country. But the biiiiigggg waves was peanuts compared to our "landing" in this coral island. (This will be in another blog.) So much have been written about Batanes. But you cannot completely comprehend the superlatives until you immerse in their culture. Then you'll understand that some superlatives are understatements.

I want to share an article I wrote for PDI which came out last Sunday. We have so much to learn from the Ivatans. This is just one aspect of their culture. I hope to share some more in the coming days. (Above photos: Racuh a' Payaman in Mahatao town and the famous Valugan boulder beach in Basco.)

Ivatan of Batanes share secrets of survival in typhoon belt
By Andrea Trinidad-Echavez
Philippine Daily Inquirer


BASCO, BATANES -- IT IS SAID THAT NO ONE dies in a typhoon in this so-called typhoon capital of the Philippines.

As “Frank” started to threaten the rest of the country a week ago, 85-year-old Carlos Balasabas confidently went about his usual routine.

He led his carabao to the payaman (communal pasture) to graze, and patiently waited until it had its fill, never mind if over the radio, the weather forecaster had said Signal No. 3 would be raised over Batanes.

Going by the signs of nature, Balasabas knew that Frank would not hit the province.

“You will know there’s a typhoon coming when the cows at the payaman come down to seek shelter,” he said.

The payaman is usually located on the higher slopes of Batanes. When a storm looms, cows instinctively take shelter. They return to the hills only when the rain and wind have died down.

For generations, the Ivatan, as the people of Batanes are called, have relied on cows and natural signs for “weather forecasts,” according to Gov. Telesforo Castillejos.

“But cows are the most reliable,” he said.

Birds, the wind, cloud movement, and the color of the sky are also indicators of the weather in the days to come.

“When birds start taking cover inside houses or go down on the ground, or when the sky becomes pinkish orange, there is an imminent typhoon,” Castillejos said.

When the Ivatan see these signs, they start gathering their animals and stay inside their stone houses. No fisherfolk will dare go out to sea.

About 15 typhoons hit Batanes every year. Supertyphoons come once in about four years.

Scholars attribute the survival of the Ivatan to their communal values and their ability to master, rather than fight. their environment.

Vital statistics

Batanes, the little dot on the map at the tip of the Philippine archipelago, is made up of 11 islands and is fringed by the South China Sea to the west, the Babuyan Islands to the south, and the Pacific Ocean to the east.

It lies closer to Taiwan than to the Luzon mainland.

Located 860 kilometers from Manila, it is the least populated and smallest province of the country, occupying a total of 229 square kilometers with a population of a little over 15,000.

Florestida Estrella, 82, remembered how her parents gathered everyone in the kitchen every time a storm threatened Batanes.

The family would stay in the kitchen until the strong winds subsided.

“We can tell that a storm has ended by the sound of the wind,” Estrella said.

Most of the Ivatan, young or old, can tell the weather, according to Dr. Antonio Torralba, dean of the University of Asia and the Pacific’s College of Arts and Sciences, and a frequent visitor of Batanes.

Even days after Frank left the country, boatmen would not budge despite the pleas of stranded tourists to take them to nearby islands. And the fisherfolk, despite their mastery of the sea, stayed home.

“The sound of the waves is not good and whitecaps are everywhere,” said Robert Bastillo, a Manila-based Ivatan who came home to attend the province’s 225th founding anniversary on June 26.

Stone houses

“We Ivatan do not resist nature. We have learned to use it to our advantage,” said Governor Castillejos.

The stone houses, for instance—vahay in the local tongue—are a testament to the positive attitude of the Ivatan to adopt to their harsh environment, he said, adding:

“It is also living proof of their deep-rooted values.”

Building a stone house requires up to 50 tons of limestone carefully gathered near the shoreline. The roof is made of 47 cubic meters of cogon grass and about 8,000 reeds.

A house is built through payuhwan (cooperation).

“With the amount of materials needed to build an 8-meter-by-6-meter traditional house, it is impossible for a family to do it without the help of the whole community,” said Castillejos.

Learning from forefathers

The loss of lives in various parts of the country in the recent typhoons has made the new breed of Ivatan realize the importance of learning from their forefathers.

Recently, the provincial government launched a campaign for the preservation of the Ivatan’s old traditions. The campaign includes encouraging the elders to consciously teach the youth.

“Our forefathers survived the harsh conditions on the islands for centuries because of [the old traditions]. We may embrace modern conveniences, but we will keep holding on to old traditions to make life in Batanes more beautiful,” Castillejos said.

Copyright 2008 Philippine Daily Inquirer. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.